A Chosen EYES IN Creator: Henrietta Ludgate

Scottish luxury womenswear label Henrietta Ludgate has already built up a strong reputation, not just as an ethical designer, but as an international fashion label. The designer’s first appearance at Estethica in 2010 landed her the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Fashion Innovation Award. Henrietta is a graduate of Central Saint Martin’s and supporting Scottish craftsmanship is central to her work.

Henrietta Ludgate’s AW12 collection, shown in the Estethica showrooms at London Fashion Week, is named ‘Hurricane’. Inspired by the majestic, terrifying power of the hurricane, the collection imagines the storm’s aftermath, when everything has been turned upside down, shaken around and crashed back down to earth. She marks this with surreal topsy-turvy detailing on her trademark minimalist pieces.

A color palette of black, twilight blue, tobacco and flashes of metallic tones adds to the theme. Materials include cashmere, jersey and even wood, all sourced sustainably within the UK. Spiralling skirts mimic the hurricane’s natural shape, whilst glow in the dark dresses and sharp jiggered collars further highlight the theme of destruction and confusion. A cosy, inky black sheepskin gilet adds a softer touch to the collection.

Crystal laden costume jewellery, created in collaboration with jewellery designer Euan McWhirter, provides plenty of ethereal sparkle to the collection. Euan, who is another Scottish born Central Saint Martin’s graduate, has used traditional beading techniques to intertwine Jet Swarovski crystals with soft lustrous charcoal and black pearls. The effect is dramatic crystal ropes that frame the neck and bust and drape provocatively down the back of the exquisite jewelled gowns.

Henrietta Ludgate has big plans for 2012. Last year she opened her first concept store, which she hopes to grow this year. She says: “The brand which bears my name may be small at the moment but I have big plans for 2012; I often say that I am building the ‘couture house of the future’.”

[Article courtesy: Clothes]