London Fashion Week Day 5 Wrap Up

Mary Katrantzou showed more ornate prints for the season, and continued to be particularly clever, incorporating her theme into the construction of her garments. There were more lampshade-style dresses, and she embroidered coats, dresses and skirts with everything from typewriter keys to spoons—her ‘pencil pencil skirt’ was literally made up of hundreds of pencils, thanks to Lesage.

Roksanda Ilincic went with opulence for autumn–winter, her eveningwear long and flowing, while her slightly more casual daywear consisted of dresses and sweatshirts—albeit with fur trim. Colors included the obligatory black, grey and white for this season, but Ilincic punctuated them with a bright blue, red and yellow.

Holly Fulton had a colorful take on autumn. Inspired by the 1920s and D. H. Lawrence’s Lady Chatterley’s Lover, Fulton went further with a playful look with tight dresses and fringed skirts. High splits and cut-outs accentuated her sexy approach. While the art-déco influences remained present with the geometric bases to some of the designs, Fulton went for hot and wearable.

Emilio de la Morena went back to his Spanish roots, with historical dresses as his starting-point. There were heavy jackets, panelled dresses and wearable separates, with black, blue and burgundy his principal colors.

Ashish’s collection yesterday afternoon, entitled Bollywouldn’t, was colorful and youthful, with a use of oversized graphic prints as well as spiritual motifs.

Meadham Kirchoff was an afternoon highlight. Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff went back to the ’70s but brown and dreary Life on Mars it wasn’t. This was the bright funky side of the decade.

[Article excerpt courtesy: Lucire]